Immediate

Last edit: May 15, 2012

This collection of projects is distinguished by their shared urgency… I am now living aboard Nomadness, and these are the things that need to be done before any significant voyaging, not those that are more geeky or long-range. All project categories are thus included.

Each is presented as a title, brief description, and list of known specific to-do items. These are lined out when completed (the last big purge of completed items took place on 3/20/2012).  Tasks most critical to relocating to Friday Harbor are italicized, since picking something to do from this huge menu is itself non-trivial.

(Hover over “Projects” in the menu above for long-range, übergeek, and support-systems jobs… the most urgent boat stuff is below. As with all such compilations, this is subject to the Roberts Law of Fractal To-Do List Complexity, which posits that each item in a list is itself merely the title of another list.)

General Interior

Ventilation

Dorade vent tweaks and other adjustments to deal with extremes of heat, bugs, and cold…  airflow control on a boat is critically important.

• Fix starboard forward dorade vent, which is not closing
• Velcro air blocking panels for dorade vents
• Velcro screen panels for companionway and forward hatches
• Gather random missing portlight screens

Companionway Door

The new door, replacing the old polycarbonate drop-board (still on hand just in case), is not quite finished… to be secure when closed and safe from damage when open, a few jobs are necessary.

• Seal gaps with EPDM and sealant
• Glue the crack on top edge near hinges
• Acquire 15.5 x 1.5 x 3/16 aluminum to shim hinge side
• Acquire two 2″ pieces of .75 x 3/16 bar stock for slide bolt spacing
• Mount new stainless slide bolt and receiver
• Fabricate UHMW landing block with second receiver to stabilize when open, with adjustable screw contact pin on bottom of door
• Contact ABH about their N1805 surface bolt, which is extremely difficult to slide (web form done 4/18 – no response whatsoever). Live with it.
• Remove slide bolt spacer unit and cut into two pads (in-between is dead weight)
• Add position sensor for future C’Way Node

Heating

Still a few essential fixes… this category includes projects and fixes related to the Little Cod wood stove and Webasto Air Top 5000 diesel unit.

• Move Webasto control panel to console over pilothouse table, since AC zone is going away
• Stowage for wood containers, saw, related tools, smoke head and pipe
• Use hinge body as drill guide to create divots for setscrews on stove cage
• Second round of sealing around the wood gasket under Little Cod deck iron… still leaking. (My first pass with low-viscosity Life Calk has completely failed; that stuff does not stick to the painted surface.) The problem is that they left no clearance between the wood part and the Treadmaster, so a fillet is impossible.
• St. Mary’s hitching on top rail over wood stove

Curtains

We’re almost there with these, after being stymied for a while by the maddening magnet-adhesive problem. Gluing directly to the aluminum window frames was not an option, as it would render the windows unserviceable (bonding the removable strip to the frame itself).

• Order fast-set epoxy.
• Order a few more magnets (along with some for fixturing on the bench)
• Fabricate 50 angle brackets with countersunk #6 hole on one side
• Clean old nasty tape residue with xylene, roughen magnets with emery cloth, and epoxy to brackets
• Use right-angle drill to mount all seven sets: Ahead Port, Ahead Center, Ahead Stbd, Fwd Side Port, Aft Side Port, Fwd Side Stbd, Aft Side Stbd
• Use seam-ripper to open pockets in ahead stbd curtain to mate with magnets against frame (necessary to allow installation)
• Define stowage for folded curtains when not in use
• Mark them all to simplify ID and orientation

Galley

This is a center of life aboard, and the little annoyances add up to become the nautical equivalent of the “divorce drawer” found in every kitchen. Put some effort into this…

• Mount a paper towel holder – use dowel or other easily removable rod between 3/8″ holes 20″ apart on wood-stove support structure… or use wood unit
• Install Spice Stack cabinet in corner between sink & stove with wood strip on top rear edge. Small stuff and cleat to keep the drawers closed.
• Hinged vent fan overhead, using a computer fan (do another for shower)
• Wine glass rack
• Improve silverware draining integration
• Bring KY silver aboard and improve storage
• Wine box nest by c’way
• Purge old fridge contents and restock for moving aboard
• Acquire 8″ Corelle (or equivalent) and save 10″ in battery-bay drawer
• Vegetable hammock
• If we have successfully relocated the AC breaker and Genset panels, then pull the old hinged console in that awkward space and install at least minimal shelving with well-secured curtains for pantry use.
• Optimize over-sink pantry for all plates/cups/bowls/glasses (except 10″ plates)
• Remove arms from aft pilothouse swivel chair to improve access and usability

Comfort

Often overlooked aboard this vessel, this is becoming ever more critical with my back issues and plans to spend significant time aboard. And with the salon being converted to a lab, the original bench seats around a table, despite being a hard and cramped space, will be missed. Compensation is necessary, and this category covers issues of human comfort from bow to stern.

• Acquire bed triangles since there won’t be room for a proper adjustable bed (the laboriously designed system with lines and hinges won’t work in the stern).
• Cut Hypervent to shape and install
• Put excess Hypervent under forward mattress
• Install domestic latex mattress athwartships
• Extract old side cushions from aft cabin
• Bedding, pillows, etc
• Experiment with the other mattress (softer)
• Cut topper to shape for Penfa Suite, using mattresses as templates
• Big pillow for Penfa lounging… just use Barney and other random ones

Carpentry

This broad category covers the major interior modifications (lab region and so on), most of which will happen after this summer trip. For purposes of this page, I’m limiting this to the immediate changes.

• Convert old instrument bay to internet alcove… remove angled panels and establish planar mounting surface, monitor mount, and nacelles for printer and other loose items
• Lab desk brainstorm with Fred 4/27
• Acquire steel shim stock for magnetic region
• Acquire plywood and other materials
• Order Joby Gorillatorch Flare for work desk
• Acquire and install tool cabinet (Viper 5 drawer 26″) on right “wing” with matching front trim strip and support knee or angled SS leg.
• Establish long-lines gateway zone for all cabling – a covered panel region in the deep corner with every cable clamped and labeled. Terminate most at barrier strips, except for coax or others with impedance-bump issues (N2K, USB, coax).
• Once old AC stuff out of that bay, do conversion to pantry space
• Install safe on original bookshelf:  remove wall document pocket; cut matching piece of .75″ ply to raise door above fiddle; bolt in place. Add felt pads to quiet door; add carriage with nylocks to bulkhead
• Open vent under main salon seat for catbox access

Inside Nav Console and Local Network Infrastructure

This is the major revision of the piloting station, with dedicated Mac for navigation, Vesper 850 Watchmate for AIS, Icom 504 VHF, Maretron DSM250 for N2K display, Simrad AP24 autopilot, and the vintage B&G instruments… as well as all the networking behind the scenes.

• Install Planar LCD in main inside-helm opening panel
• Re-install three Maretron TLA after upgrade/replacement (on hand)
• Remove old green-felt board and set aside DSM and Simrad
• Fab new wood panel with hinges and retaining screws
• Temporary AIS bracket-mount pending new panel fabrication
• Mount Vesper 850 on new hinged panel under window, along with Maretron DSM250, i70 (?) or B&G pair, AP24 Autopilot head
• Order Vesper coax extension cables, both 6′:  TNC female to TNC male, and BNC female to PL-259 male.  (from Field Components)
• Mount Icom M504 VHF in corner under window to right
• Mount laptop/document rack on wall aft of shower door
• Mount Icom mic on edge of laptop/document rack
• Mount Icom mic extension connector upper-left of Yanmar panel
• Fit in the Golight control & video source select for boat-wide analog NTSC line under Planar display
• Move hydraulic joystick to old AC Source Select location
• Mount Mux, Actisense, and additional backbone stuff on back wall
• On-water Simrad autopilot calibration
• Mount Nav Mini in vertical housing behind new computer panel, with local cabling to Planar display
• Move Webasto control from old AC panel to stereo panel while in there
• Install louvers and add thermostatically controlled fan
• Install Carnetix power supply
• Cable video, USB, and front-panel power button on Planar
• Fashion straps to hold flaky Mac power and video connectors securely
• Install PolarView and PolarCom
• Install Managing the Waterway DVD content on Mini
• Install Light List on Mini (in DropBox)
• Add J1939 and N2K interface to Yanmar harness

This is minor stuff to make life aboard a little nicer… or to make sure that everything has a place.

• framed 12×24″ mirror over panel in aft cabin entryway to increase visual space
• Mount tokens over aft cabin door
• PMR copper orchid artwork in Penfa suite
• EHR Hupmobile photo
• Tesselate bins in aft-cabin garage for goo, large parts, and other items that would clutter the cabin.

Exterior

Outside Helm

The pedestal, navigation pod, and associated additions… this area has been spartan and minimalist to the point of being dangerous.  Time to fix it…

• Order NavPod GP164 if we have decided to use i70 pair (else smaller one)… or do it right and make a custom wooden one.
• Order new pedestal guard with double bend
• Mount E7 (and maybe two i70)
• Mount Icom CommandMic III
• Nest for autopilot remote
• Mount Golight remote
• Eliminate the old Yanmar panel… move switch to Navpod… use i70 or E7 to display N2K data from engine… seal off panel space.

Helm Seat

An absolutely essential upgrade after too many hours spent standing in pain at the wheel. Plan for this has evolved from stock unit on post to split wood unit on laz cover to mesh with stainless frame inspired by Corsair 36 catbird seats.

• Order eyelets and tool (these spur grommets from Sailrite, plus hole cutter and die set)
• Sell the 1″ 4-way corners from Sea Dog (unless useful as part of the antenna mount hack off port arch pole).
• Drill divots at all setscrews
• Install rectangular bases on starboard side; drill/route teak to pass tubing
• Screw block under port side to handle point load of mobile end
• 2′ tube from forward vertical post to sternrail to triangulate
• Stretch Microship trampoline material over frame after adding new eyelets on blank edge and cutting to length.  Tension with lacing of 1/4″ line
• Fabricate cushions for back

• Clear lazarette clutter (see propane section for more)
• Meet with Rick and Derek regarding solar structure – need in time for Tim visit in… need array working.
• Also with Rick, discuss stainless sheet retrofit done for dodger (removing old fabric), if possible
• Mount ship’s bell

Dinghy Management

The Gig Harbor 10′ Navigator is a great little dink, but the whole system needs some serious maintenance and fine tuning. A lot here…

• Refinish the oars
• Sell the sail rig – fun, but too fiddly to use and mostly dead weight in practice (email GH about this)
• Move lift points to hull to improve hoisting stability (especially with motor, currently impossible)
• Improve sealing around hatch covers bow and stern… compartments fill with water
• Repair minor hull/gelcoat damage from Oak Harbor incident
• Design new lifting system that does not depend on holding line in teeth or two people… spec and order hardware… turning block on each davit root and block with cleat (like dink sailing assembly) at sternrail, possibly both on one side
• Fabricate “nest” to keep it under control once hoisted. Existing system with auxiliary stainless ratchet straps is fiddly and does not prevent twisting in high wind
• Urgent: remove or cover dinghy pintle and bowsprit hardware that has caused so many expensive Awlgrip nicks on the stern, or create a linkage that keeps it at a fixed distance but can handle rough water (non-trivial)
• Captivate forward-rowing lock pins

Rigging

That big stick poking out of the boat is kind of an important part, despite all my discussion about systems and übergeekery. Here are a few things that must happen soon.

• Circlips on turnbuckles
• Clamber up mast, replace the broken light, and do a masthead inspection
• Lubricate Hood in-mast furler and put it through some testing
• Service winches
• Confirm spinnaker pole functionality and stow it along with rigging kit (oh, and figure it out)

Anchoring

My experience off the seemingly benign Camano shore (whilst banished from F Dock at Oak Harbor to make room for the go-fast toys of Whidbey Race Week) was a real eye-opener. The anchor is robust, but some of the handling hardware needs attention… notably the Lighthouse 1501 windlass. I did a basic clean-up, but this thing has failed me once and it’s probably worth getting it serviced.

• Contact Lighthouse with account of problem and photos… find out whether we should take it there for a look
• Retrofit reversing controller
• Better chain hook
• Improve headset system for helm-anchor comms or at least confirm batteries in headsets and test current ones
• Replace intermittent windlass deck switch (after reversing system added)
• Mount stern-tie reel

Leaks, Paint, and Maintenance

Any boat is beset constantly by little issues that require attention… leaks around fixtures that find their way to a drip in an unfortunate spot, spreading rust, things that should move but don’t, things that shouldn’t move but do, and so on. This group is for all those (both exterior and interior).

• Leak around wood stove deck fixture (located with food coloring after dripping onto chart table for months)… use low-viscosity Life Calk.
• Little Cod wood stove deck fixture is leaking again, only a few months after fix. Might have to build up a dam around it. Andrew says they used Dolphinite.
• Repair failed forward starboard pilothouse window as well as center one, with leak leading to captive water and streaks from evaporation/condensation.
• Probably not gonna happen soon, but just in case… chase toerail tang rust and the cancerous stuff around anchor locker (but this time with proper Awlgrip coating sequence and a needle scaler).
• Look into Treadmaster paint, since the stuff is porous and chronically moldy
• Remove other two windshield wipers (cable meltdown, not to be trusted) and plug hole with stainless bolt as on starboard window.

Ship Systems

Engines and Fuel

• Replace faulty Yanmar engine-control switch in outside (B-type) panel.
• Change oil & filter in genset
• Change oil & filter in main engine
• Examine Racor, water drain, and possibly replace filter
• Tighten clamp where main exhaust meets thru-hull at stern (tiny dribble)
• Fill all fuel tanks
• Restrict two hoses at risk for chafe
• Check intake screen on genset
• Check exhaust elbow on genset
• Hire diver to check prop for fouling (along with impeller, raw intakes, and hull)

Power and Battery Management Including New Panel

This is rather a large category, and will later break out into multiple sections… one of the hot jobs is the whole new power panel, along with a number of deferred upgrades and enhancements. I’m not sure where the breakpoint is between what’s needed for this trip and what can come later; once I tear into it, I have to finish. Bear in mind that I have already sold the original breaker panel (hi, Chip!).

• Do a decent drawing of the whole system before Tim visit
• Remove old transfer relay and related hardware
• Remove chromium switches including all on power panel and Pump on helm
• Install ISO-G2 isolation transformer (on hand)
• Spec the new array of breakers
• Order new DC breaker panel, 8382 with added hi-amperage breakers (has DC multimeter; AC one already on hand)
• Design and order new hinging substrate using Front Panel Express
• Look at 2-axis hinging idea to let it swing sideways and be supported by tabletop
• Mount Blue Sea breaker panels, genset controls, monitoring units, meters, MATE, FNDC, etc.
• Install in parallel with old one and transfer the breaker wiring.
• Remove old breaker panel and ship to Chip.
• Move AC source-select function to panel and open original space for joystick
• Once solar array is in place, cable to the Outback MX-60 and into the battery bus and make Ethernet connection
• Find return amps value on FX so MATE returns full charge more reliably
• Shunt installation
• Establish charger zone in old book nook: Maha C-9000 station, Icom VHF base, Yaesu HT base, camera/Kindle/laptop chargers, etc
• Acquire new wall-outlet with integrated USB chargers from OWC for this region
• Investigate apparent open-neutral (according to neon tester) when significant AC load present (radiator)
• Pull LectraSan cable and re-route to lab long-lines region
• Build some kind of cage or folding frame to handle body weight over unfolded panel when working in power bay.
• Establish stowage for Honda 2000 and repurpose Polaris cordset

Lighting

I threw this in “ship systems” although it spans many other categories (interior, exterior, power, geekery…). Lots of random lighting fixes and improvements are necessary.

• LED anchor light. Find someone to go up the mast (I think Jim volunteered)
• Fix/replace failed Aqua-Signal green bow LED navlight (avoid this brand from now on; the mounting scheme is awful and this one died in benign conditions, essentially unused. Another brand bites the dust.)
• Mount existing LED flood on radar bracket for cockpit
• Replace spreader lights and foredeck light with a pair of Rigid Dually
• Put a decent reading/work light at nav station desk… currently a dreary spot.
• Small LED at companionway
• Replacement for cheesy LED raillights, hard-wired
• Fix intermittent switch on Penfa wall-mount light fixture and relocate to starboard aft cabin
• Add reading light at forward Penfa bulkhead (relocate gooseneck from aft cabin)
• Add decent lighting inside power panel (strip LED)
• Add white light option at outside of power panel
• Mount helmet camera on Golight housing
• Mount spotlight on bow pulpit with epoxy-finished wood platform and stainless U-bolts; shim to compensate for slight pulpit skew
• Cable power and video to lab region
• Add fixtures to both helm enclosures for Stryker wireless remote
• Strip light to clothes closet in aft stateroom with reed switch
• Strip light to clothes closet in Penfa suite with reed switch
• Strip light over stove
• Where is the best place for that APRSworld LED assembly?
• Lighting in cabinet over galley sink
• Small 100% duty-cycle LED strip light for catbox closet

Water Heater

The Isotemp Slim Square was installed a few months ago, and (after a few initial leaks from reinforced hose softening with exposure to hot water) works well. At the moment, all that’s necessary is wrapping up the job by physically bolting it to the boat… it’s just sitting there, though it has popped its over-temp breaker once (why?).

• AWAB hose clamps to replace any “Ideal” type in current use
• Attach mounting blocks to shower compartment wall

Aft Head

The remnants of the original bizarre plumbing system are still hanging off the Lavac toilet in the aft head compartment, leading to flakiness. Also, since the nasty old LectraSan is non-functional (and of questionable legality anyway), I want it to go away.

• Pull LectraSan and sell control board
• Re-route LectraSan power cable to lab for SSB, Kenwood, and future use
• Pull all old hoses leading forward (mini-tank and old crossover)
• Decide whether to keep this as an O/B only head, convenient for #1 but a potential liability in a boarding even if not used for #2. Most likely:
• Pull aft Lavac and replace with composting toilet. SV Sarah uses Airhead; the options are Nature’s Head and Air Head.

Forward Head

I will always be annoyed at that local “marine plumber” who did such a terrible and expensive job on this, but now I have to live with it. At least I have learned to check references and fire anyone who obviously hates his work. Most of the “First Mate Marine” leaks (botched Spinweld, inadequate hose clamping, loose fittings, sheet-metal screws in the Sealand inspection plate bolt circle, and a hose under pressure sealed by just screwing in a cap) have been fixed, but a few tweaks remain:

• Fix leaky hose fitting at T12 pump
• Check Henderson valve integrity… possible back leakage
• Confirm that his sloppy access port job has not started leaking again
• Fix or replace pop-up on deck fitting
• Wash tank – it’s been sitting for a long time

Shower

The shower itself is pretty much fine, with recent seam-sealing apparently successful and excellent local hot water supply. A few fixes and modifications:

• Repair broken seat, which failed catastrophically and needs proper reinforcing. Begin with biscuits and glue, then add a bracing channel or similar.
• Install soap dish or pole
• Add hinged vent fan to overhead hatch while also doing the one for the galley
• Standardize lashup for the solar shower hanging and hose routing
• Acquire a check valve to prevent sump pump surging

Propane

This is kind of flaky at the moment, and needs some refinement. The gauge on my valve assembly died a few years ago, making a leak-down test impossible, current capacity is inadequate, and it’s taking up very valuable and rare lazarette space.

• Acquire a second tank, or two new ones (consider Seaward 20# fiberglass see-through; Lite series cheaper but not sure of marine)
• See if gauge/regulator assembly left over from Hogfish is adequate (no)
• Expand propane region in the lazarette and put other stuff elsewhere. Fab a cover to make it less wet… old system corroded.
• Acquire Dickinson Sea-B-Que large rail BBQ and install…  (According to Dickinson, the 1.25″ adapter is not needed; just longer bolts for stock mount.)
• Clean and stow the fiddly Cobb; nice solid-fuel backup, but a pain to clean and the nonstick coating degrades dangerously (40% gone after about 20 uses)
• Build propane sensor/alarm and install (low) – acquire 2 MQ-6 sensor modules
• Get a reverse cylinder adapter for disposable backup
• Run new dedicated line to galley stove
• Refill existing tank for use while system being built, and as spare.

Provisioning and Shopping

Tools and Boat Goodies

• Hooknife and Perfect Pole (replacement for the one lost at the linear moorage on Bainbridge)
• Magnet goo
• Bilge pillows
• Milwaukee Right-Angle Drill Attachment
• Fire blanket
• Foam extinguisher
• Get over-the-door shoe holder for pantry doors, holding little stuff
• ScotteVest upgrade
• Hero2 camera with flexible mounting (talk with Daniel)

Administrative, Legal, and Overhead

Border-Crossing Essentials

This is all stuff that has to be handled, lest abstract obstacles materialize!

• Nexus pass for 2013
• International rabies certificate for Isabelle
• Still have user fee decals?
• MMSI to M504 and M802 and Vesper 850
• New Vessel Safety Check after updating flares; contact FHPS

Project Management

This online list is working pretty well at the moment, but a few more things…

• Update the Nomadness Network Architecture drawing, last revised Dec 17, 2009 – specifically in the shipnet department (N2K/183/Internet/comms).
• Before Tim visit, do drawing of power system
• Do cable drawings at the zone level to capture all the interconnects (like NOIDS, but more usefully graphic).

Facilities

This is a huge category at the moment, given the move to Friday Harbor

• Participate in Bridgeport table removal and cleaning/lube.
• Get Rock Island Canopy installation at lab.
• Empty small office space under Verandah before June 1 regardless of moving method
• Get two competing bids for moving company option; if I go that route, ignore following steps and do a boxing marathon since it can’t be incremental
• If not movers, then take small-room contents in Newt to FH and while there, empty Polaris… then tow back to La Conner
• Trailer load #2 is all “Hall of Tonnage” stuff, mostly already boxed, plus any second-string furniture and other stuff… basically, all offline tonnage
• Step up essentials for boat move (actual essentials – engine, plotter, dead Aqua-Signal green, fuel, windlass test, TLA restoration, VHF install, maintenance)
• Trailer load #3 is Camano including Microship (if above stuff not yet done); else it is active lab/office contents. We have until July 1 on La Conner lease, but want to be done well before then.
• Trailer load #4 – whatever is left.  Hopefully that is all.