This is the most fine-grained collection of current projects. The italicized tasks are the most urgent. Actually, the title above is a misnomer; this is now becoming a very thorough document, and there is no way that it is all “immediate.” A more accurate title would be Clearly Defined Tasks.
Each chunk of the project is presented as a label, brief description, and list of bulleted to-do items that are as specific as possible. These are
lined out when completed and deleted when no longer relevant. Broad categories (Interior, Consoles, Exterior, Ship Systems, & Miscellaneous) are arbitrary and overlapping, but help get a rough grasp on project scope. Notably absent are vague brainstorming items; if something is here, it has been defined as an actual task that needs no additional research.
As with all such compilations, of course, this is subject to my Roberts Law of Fractal To-Do List Complexity: Each item in a list is merely the title of another list.
As to why this is public… there are a few reasons. It’s an easy editing environment, it is visible from multiple devices, some of my friends like to see what’s going on, and it’s an open invitation to help or contribute suggestions.
From 1993-2003, I was focused on building an amphibian pedal-solar-sail micro-trimaran… a decade of intense work, all available resources, help from industry, the inventions of very clever people, and the obsessive focus of my technomadic fantasies in the post-BEHEMOTH era. She had one brief jaunt around Puget Sound in 2001, then sat idle in my Camano Island lab for over a decade. This boatlet has been needing a swan song (or more!) for a long time, and now she is about to have one… I’m putting her in the water for the summer. Where (and when) better than here (and now)? Here’s what needs to be done pre-splash:
- Re-assemble crankset with Tran-Torque couplers
- Purge/bleed hydraulic system
- Get all rigging together
- Recover carbon paddle and find T-handle if possible
- Either use E7D with new cable/bracket or find a cheap mini-plotter
Repair dead LED sternlight Acquire new battery, possibly pair of 6V GC Test old shore charger Acquire minimal solar controller for cowling panel
- Fab a battery retaining system and route the refill hose
- Gather slings and rigging for crane launch
- Schedule launch with help: haul without batteries and install those and crankset before hoisting
The new door, replacing the old polycarbonate drop-board (still on hand just in case), is not quite finished… to be secure when closed and safe from damage when open, a few jobs are necessary.
- Seal gaps with EPDM and sealant
- Glue the crack on top edge near hinges
- Fabricate landing block with second receiver for ABH N1805 surface bolt to stabilize when open, with adjustable contact pin on bottom of door. (note marginal protrusion from the bottom of the door)
- Find persistent lube for high-friction area in the ABH part, since it binds easily
- Modify aluminum slide bolt spacer unit to two pads (in-between is ugly)
- Add position sensor for C’Way Node
- Replace the Webasto Airtop 5000 thermostat, which turns out to be little more than a difficult-to-use switch. Look at the Honeywell T812B1001 (12V thermostat with “anticipator.”
- Wire duct fan to its own breaker (Webasto has inline fuse already)
- Stowage for wood containers, saw, related tools, smoke head and pipe
- Use hinge body as drill guide to create divots for setscrews on stove cage
Dorade vent tweaks and other adjustments to deal with extremes of heat, bugs, and cold… airflow control on a boat is critically important.
- Velcro air blocking panels for dorade vents
- Velcro screen panels for companionway and forward hatches
- Gather random missing portlight screens
- Extend aft exhaust fan duct hose to extract foul air from catbox enclosure. 3″ hose apparently requires at least 2 of the abandoned sewage lines to go away.
- Add vents to enclosed top-access cabinets on either side of bed as well as spaces below. Sea-Dog louvered stainless vents should be OK; buy 10 of 331620-1.
We’re almost there with these, after being stymied for a while by the maddening magnet-adhesive problem. Gluing directly to the aluminum window frames was not an option, as it would render the windows unserviceable (bonding the removable strip to the frame itself).
- Finish this: mount magnet brackets: Ahead Port, Ahead Center
- Fix all the failed crappy Gorilla epoxy ones with VHB (Finish these!)
- Define stowage for folded curtains when not in use
- Make black-out curtain for forward hatch
- Mark all curtains to simplify ID and orientation
This is a center of life aboard, and the little annoyances add up to become the nautical equivalent of the “divorce drawer” found in every kitchen. Put some effort into this…
- Bolt espresso machine to demi-wall (using threaded inserts to keep serviceable)
- Cable espresso machine to power in alcove with local connector so it can move
- Install outlet behind DC fridge for galley appliances; dedicated AC breaker
- Move Spice Stack cabinet to new pantry region.
- Defrost AC fridge and freezer
- Hinged vent fan overhead, using a computer fan (do another for shower)
- Wine glass rack, maybe
- Vegetable hammock
- Remove strip-light dimmer and install switch (PWM noise at less than 100%)
- Once we have relocated AC breaker and Genset panels, pull the old hinged console and install shelving with well-secured curtains or door for pantry use.
- Optimize over-sink pantry for all plates/cups/bowls/glasses (except 10″ plates)
Often overlooked aboard this vessel, this is becoming ever more critical with my back issues. And with the salon being converted to a lab, the original bench seats around a table, despite being a hard and cramped space, will be missed. Compensation is necessary, and this category covers issues of human comfort from bow to stern.
- Add pillows to Penfa suite to create a comfortable lounging place
- Find a solution to the bed-angle design issue in aft cabin without blocking access to stowage
- Good reading light at forepeak (see lighting section below)
- Better book retainers for library
- Remove all the old twist fasteners under bookshelves
- Order a dozen 5/16x.75 lag bolts for lab-region grab rails
- Install grab rail on forward bulkhead
- Install grab rail on mast, facing lab
Miscellaneous, Stowage, and Aesthetics
This is minor stuff to make life aboard a little nicer… or to make sure that everything has a place.
- framed 12×24″ mirror over panel in aft cabin entryway to increase visual space
- Covers on aft bulkhead of aft cabin, covering old speaker holes.
- PMR copper orchid artwork in Penfa suite
- EHR Hupmobile photo (get high-quality scan first)
- Hang curtain on aft side of sleeping space to increase warmth
- Tesselate bins in aft-cabin garage for goo, large parts, and other items that would clutter the cabin.
- Bedside cabinet mods
- St. Mary’s hitching on top rail over wood stove
- Move all clothes to aft cabin and set up forward cabinet under 11×17 printer as goo inventory
- Fine-tune clothing inventory… sloppy
Interior Console Spaces
Lab/Studio/Comm Console, General Structure
This broad category covers all the physical work in the lab region. Sub-categories below reflect the three 12U rack zones… objects are listed in the Console Devices page.
Fabricate socket for seat pedestal with hinge system
- Fabricate stowage drawer for piano (52″ x 12″ x 5″ approx)
Fabricate music stand 5″ off desktop
- Route cable snake from connector pod under desk around left edge to allow mode change without tangles
- Pick up Galaxy Vintage D software piano, run in server
- restraint system for iMac when underway, protected from window drips
- Fabricate roof for whole region – continuous wood surface with slight overhang, supported by vertical members that define rack nests.
- Aft end wall to bulkhead with hinged panel for access
- Mount studio speakers over rack zones 1 and 2 once console roof is in place
- Mount articulated/flexible boom for LED 10W flood lamp at center top
- Install threaded inserts, drill desk, and use thumbscrews to secure CFR rack units in place with easy removability for service. Rear can have simple wood inside corners or locating pegs screwed to the desktop, defining rack positions.
- Design detachable waterproof curtain system with track on front edge
- Remove logo from tool cabinet
- Add stainless tray under tool cabinet with sliders and stops to create a drawer for soldering stuff and related tools
- Acquire more Stanley 014725 parts organizers for hardware inventory, and make a rack in the TV cabinet with angle-bracket sliders and a retaining member. Room to pull them out and exit easily. Label handles.
Rack Zone #1 – Audio/Video
Mixer, amps, recording, video, and related functions…
- Sell Crown XLS1000… sweet, but overkill for this application
- Fusion MS-IP700 install in 3U – remove and sell MS-IP500
- Pull speaker wires currently terminating at power terminal board and do distribution here
- Tascam DP-008 mounting in 3U
- Mount cluster of six pushwheel switches in 3U panel for manual video routing
- Panel-mount Edirol M-16DX mixer in 6U
- Fabricate a panel (Front Panel Express) for the random A/V stuff, lower left beside mixer in 6U
- dust off Vixbar with Arduino, or incorporate into Node X
- Mount HP Buck/Boost with dedicated panel outlet for PX-5S and other local 12V loads. Check for ground isolation.
- Make vid splitter for underwater camera connector in companionway
Rack Zone #2 – Communications
Radio gear, mostly… with two 6U panels.
- Upper panel: Icom speaker, DSP controls, local speaker-routing stuff, iPad RAM mount, FM xmtr
- Lower panel: 802, 706, D710, PACTOR, Wavenode, 996, RigBlaster, CW pop-out key, and random stuff
Rack Zone #3 – Lab
- Choose test equipment suite
- Build local Arduino node with dev panel
- Blue Sea DC and USB outlets in power cluster
- AC outlet install at bottom and cable to rack outlets breaker
Inside Main Helm Console
This is the major revision of the piloting station, with dedicated Planar sunlight-readable LCD for the nav Mac, engine controls… and the networking behind the scenes. See next section for the smaller instruments mounted above. This section includes VHF.
- Install Planar LCD in new main inside-helm opening panel
- Replicate original engine control cutouts
- Move Yanmar panel location to right to make room for cluster at lower left
- Fab new Starboard panel with piano hinge and retaining screws; slight angle on top edge to clear upper-helm panel hinge
- Install panel connectors: N2K for tinkering and testing new equipment, USB to local Mac, Ethernet to router, DB-9 for GPS from AIS. Order correct panel USB connectors.
- Power button for Mac (via Carnetix, I believe; white ring LED button)
- Grab handle at top (matches one on power panel)
- Mount steering joystick under engine controls… or swap for a trio of chromium switches (enable plus L-R momentary) for less panel real estate.
- Add interlock to disable joystick rudder pump if autopilot on. (Eliminate original pull switch – breaker only, but with hard lockout, possibly as simple as DPDT toggle for power, to avoid autopilot interaction… or relay for power-inefficient solution without human error potential)
- Mount and cable hailer horn… possibly lower spreader since it appears lights are separately cabled from barrier strip at mast base (test this). Over pilothouse a much easier option, but might get feedback through dorades. On new dodger?
- On-water Simrad autopilot calibration
- VHF Ground wire to central ground
- Determine whether CMII extension will be compatible and order CMIII if so
Inside Upper Helm Panel
This is a hinged panel above the large one at the piloting station, carrying Vesper 850 Watchmate for AIS, Icom 504 VHF, Maretron DSM250 for N2K display, Simrad AP24 autopilot, and vintage B&G instruments. This job is complete – see photo on console devices page, or more detail in the Nomadness blog post of Feb 22, 2013.
Power Console Fabrication
This replaces the original power console with new Blue Sea Systems panels, and carries the Outback MATE3, metering, a local shipnet node, and Yanmar genset controls. This is nearly complete; the panels are installed and working, with a few loose ends remaining.
- Install Yanmar audible alarm on angle bracket inside, pointing down
- Sense lines to DC DMM
- Mill upper thin panel opening for vent louver and temp control panel
- Install top thin panel with original upper hinge
- Clone genset control cluster, including charge light hack required by LED
- Add hinge structure for Node P behind MATE3
Battery management, distribution, and related power internals
Distinct from the above category (physical power console fabrication), this category is related to the power management system itself.
- Balmar regulator – give LEDs more transparency with local window or relocation. Connect idiot-light output to Yanmar blue/black harness wire.
- Trace ground loop noise while charging… watch with scope, turn down charge rate to observe correlation.
Reconnect bilge pump (inline fuse in addition to 3AG at control… wiring was originally unprotected!)
- Power down and eliminate shunt connection to ship ground (move to batt) and relocate FX from Shunt C to Shunt B (A is currently solar; move to C and make A the system loads to be consistent with FNDC manual)
- order 1/0 cable with 5/16 and 3/8 fittings -HOT
- Fuse FNDC battery voltage sense – B/W twisted pair (during power-down)
- Find return amps value on FX and adjust programming
- Write tool to archive MATE3 UDP stream to database
- Investigate apparent open-neutral (according to neon tester) when significant AC load present (radiator)
- Stow eu2000 (run it with fresh fuel ASAP!) and repurpose Polaris cordset
- Add inline heating duct fan in lab region to panel breaker (was inline fuse to battery and bad connection to shunt)
- Repurpose old nav power group on Internet Alcove: dedicated server inverter, research, always-on…
- Tin the shunt bus bar
- Dielectric grease battery and other large terminals
- Look at adjusting wire lengths from bat banks to combiner switch to be equal
- Confirm bus bar is central point ground (might have to become a larger structure)
- Maybe: Move AC neutral-ground connection from ISO-G2 to AC distrib bus on panel, so it is still present when genset in use. Disable if present in Outback. Use contrasting color of wire. (note this is not how I did it)
- Big fuse to inverter/charger should be Class T (round), and there should really be two of them (either side of combiner switch)
- Add relay on + side of windlass (currently only switches neg, with huge leakage corrosion and safety risk… what were they thinking?)
- Add fat wire from Outback FX case to ship common ground point (bus bar)
- Move the green DC bonding wire from AC ground bus (currently on Shunt B) to common ground bus (and label)
- Add cutoff switch on engine start battery – Bluesea model with field disconnect
Shacktopus Power Node
This is a busy one, and should not be confused with the feed that comes from the Outback system. The job of this node is to reflect the entire status of the ship’s power distribution – all breakers, state of AC source selector switch, AC present, and anything else that can be glommed via optocouplers (RC-filter to detect AC).
- Design UI (use green and red ring-light buttons on power console… green for attn and red for alerts/ack)
- Design interface circuits for AC and DC breakers
- Install local micro
This is located behind the main helm panel.
- Mount Nav Mini (older unit) in vertical housing, cabled to Planar display.
- Install louvers with thermostatically controlled fan (sensor at top of power panel)
- Install Carnetix power supply
- Cable video, USB, and front-panel power button on Planar
- Fashion straps to hold Mac power and video connectors securely
- Install PolarView and PolarCom and explore OpenCPN
- Install Managing the Waterway DVD content on Mini
- Install Light List on Mini (in DropBox)
- Add J1939 and N2K interface to Yanmar harness
Server and Internet Alcove
This originally contained B&G, Furuno sounder, GPS, and VHF… but it’s an awful spot for things I want to see and touch while piloting. For a while it was to become the lab, then when that blossomed into the larger space forward, it was to be a bookshelf. Now it will be home for all the server gear, with Zone of Hackage embedded in the desktop like a giant breadboard system.
- Update labeling on power distribution strip on back wall; this will serve lab and hackage zone
- Remove mystery coax heading aft
- Mount Mini server behind hinged access panel
- Mount hinged monitor on panel, but mostly run server headless (and VNC)
- Add thermostatically controlled fan if airflow inadequate
- Relocate Cradlepoint into this region behind smoked acrylic panel
- Add Cyfre CA-819 amp for Millenicom to Shakespeare, behind access panel, and give it one of the switched DC circuits as well as extended coax
- Argus system goes in here – follow up on that
- Backup drive, 28-port USB hub, and other little stuff behind access panel
- Deep backup in its spot
- Test Rogue Wave WiFi with POE and Cradlepoint before antenna installation. Sell Pepwave Surf Mini
- Fabricate nacelles with retainers for Brother HL2270DW laser printer, ScanSnap, wireless keyboard, etc.
- Install 11×17 printer on Penfa shelf, using two 2x4x16 rails
- Stow doc scanner and laminator
- Set up documentation library on server, with all ship PDF dox, schematics, etc.
All the battery-management hardware for portable devices is in one place, atop and beside the safe near the TV.
- Bring a dedicated DC line from breaker panel, and provide barrier strips
- Mount Cig 12V outlet and AC USB charging outlet (unswitched)
- Add Switch and LED for junction strip feeding all 12V charge cables
- Mount MAHA MH-C9000 unit, with 12V source (raw boat 12 OK? If not, dedicate HP buck/boost)
- NiMH management (cases and bins for charged and otherwise; logbook)
- Mount Icom and Yaesu HT charging bases
- Mac, Kindle, phone, iPad, camera, camcorder, Makita chargers
- Make a little bin for gadget-related gadgets and adapters
- Mount strip for optimal cable flow and bring AC from behind TV. This will require clamping with zip ties or brackets, since Tripp-Lite’s wall-mounting provision is extremely cheesy.
- Laminate card identifying each charger and protocol for powering (12V cluster switch, individual AC switched outlet, USB gadget, etc)
- Add safe carriage bolts with nylocks to bulkhead
The pedestal, navigation pod, and associated additions… this area has been spartan and minimalist to the point of being dangerous. Time to fix it…
- Use 1″ SS tubing and fittings to create new pedestal guard
- Mount E7 (and other stuff) once full suite defined
- Mount Icom CommandMic III
- Nest for autopilot remote
- Mount Golight remote
- Maybe eliminate the old Yanmar panel… move switch to Navpod… use i70 or E7 to display N2K data from engine… seal off opening. Problem was in cable.
An absolutely essential upgrade after too many hours spent standing in pain at the wheel. Plan for this has evolved from stock unit on post to split wood unit on laz cover to mesh with stainless frame inspired by Corsair 36 catbird seats.
- Order eyelets and tool (spur grommets from Sailrite, hole cutter and die set)
- Drill divots at all setscrews
- Install rectangular bases on starboard side; drill/route teak to pass tubing
- Screw block under port side to handle point load of mobile end
- 2′ tube from forward vertical post to sternrail to triangulate
- Stretch Microship trampoline material over frame after adding new eyelets on blank edge and cutting to length. Tension with lacing of 1/4″ line
- Fabricate cushions for back
Cockpit Enhancements Various
This is currently a very uncomfortable cockpit, which is crazy since that’s where most time is spent underway. There are a lot of long-term upgrades here (the console at the pedestal) but a few things are essential for any significant sailing:
- Clear lazarette clutter (see propane section for more)
- Plan hard-surface retrofit done for dodger (removing tired old fabric). This project includes some decent windows. Look at using King Starboard vs sheet stainless for easier hacking… lace to framework for grippable edge vs clamps
- Mount ship’s bell somewhere
- Fix wobbly floorboard at the companionway
- Design cockpit roof bridging forward solar array and dodger, with windows to allow clear view of sails. Eliminate floppy bimini.
The Gig Harbor 10′ Navigator is a great little dink, but the whole system needs some serious maintenance and fine tuning. A lot here…
- Refinish the oars
- HOT: Run and lube the little Yamaha with fresh gas… been sitting way too long
- Possibly sell the sail rig – fun, but fiddly to use and mostly dead weight in practice (email GH about this)
- Move lift points to hull to improve hoisting stability (especially with motor, currently impossible)
- Lift padeyes are causing serious deformation of thin bulkhead fiberglass… this needs to change asap before they rip out. Reinforce or glass over holes.
- Improve sealing around hatch covers… compartments fill with water
- Repair minor hull/gelcoat damage from Oak Harbor incident
- Design new lifting system that does not depend on holding line in teeth or two people… spec and order hardware… turning block on each davit root and block with cleat (like dink sailing assembly) at sternrail, possibly both on one side
- Fabricate “nest” to keep it under control once hoisted. Existing system with stainless ratchet straps is fiddly and does not prevent twisting in high wind
- Urgent: remove or cover dinghy pintle and bowsprit hardware that has caused so many expensive Awlgrip nicks on the stern, or create a linkage that keeps it at a fixed distance but can handle rough water (non-trivial)
- Develop kluge with a pole to hold dink away from boat
- Captivate forward-rowing lock pins
That big stick poking out of the boat is kind of an important part, despite all my discussion about systems and übergeekery. Here are a few things that must happen soon.
- Clamber up mast, eliminate the broken trilite and keep power line for camera, replace anchor light with LED
(buy Lunasea from Friday Harbor Marine)
- Fabricate sky-platform using parallel mainsail track for cams, antennas, etc.
- Find battcars to adapt, or build little rollers with spacer material and T-axles
- Lubricate Hood in-mast furler and put it through some testing
- Service winches
- Clean undersides of spreaders
- Have a rigger diagnose loose port spreader
- Mount hailer if cabling to spreader lights is conveniently split
- Confirm spinnaker pole functionality and stow it along with rigging kit (oh, and figure it out)
- Dux inner forestay for cutter rig
My experience off the seemingly benign Camano shore (whilst banished from F Dock at Oak Harbor to make room for the go-fast toys of Whidbey Race Week) was a real eye-opener. The anchor is robust, but some of the handling hardware needs attention… notably the Lighthouse 1501 windlass. I did a basic clean-up, but this thing has failed me once and it’s worth getting it serviced.
- Contact Lighthouse with account of problem and photos… find out whether we should take it there for a look
- Retrofit reversing controller
- Better chain hook
- Deploy chain at dock, inspect, test windlass/switch
- Make laminated label with color code since I forget every year
- Improve headset system for helm-anchor comms or at least confirm batteries in headsets and test current ones
- Replace intermittent windlass deck switch (after reversing system added)
- Mount stern-tie reel
- Anchor out locally to test
- Look at changing from current 65# Bruce to more modern design (discussion)
Leaks, Paint, and Maintenance
Any boat is beset constantly by little issues that require attention… leaks around fixtures that find their way to a drip in an unfortunate spot, spreading rust, things that should move but don’t, things that shouldn’t move but do, and so on. This group is for all those (both exterior and interior).
- Repair failed forward starboard pilothouse window as well as center one, with leak leading to captive water and streaks from evaporation/condensation.
- Probably not gonna happen soon, but just in case… chase toerail tang rust and the cancerous stuff around anchor locker (but this time with proper Awlgrip coating sequence and a needle scaler).
- Look into Treadmaster paint, since the stuff is porous and chronically moldy
- Remove other two windshield wipers (cable meltdown, not to be trusted) and plug hole with stainless bolt as on starboard window.
- Consider simply covering three obscured portlights: behind lab, behind 11×17 printer, behind safe. For the rest, New Found Metals replacements for the ever-so-wrong aluminum ones with inadequate galvanic isolation
Ship Systems and Tech
Rudder Post Slop
This video is hosted here temporarily for the benefit of my advisors who know more about the innards of the rudder structure than I do… nomadness-rudder-wobble
Measure shaft OD, tube ID, and flange height. Shaft 1.5″ Tubing inside approx 2″ Flange allowance .3″ - not standard, so machining necessary
- Prepare for other haulout jobs: bottom paint, zincs, prop lube, hull-guard strip, Raymarine P319 (?) transducer for E7D, portlight removal
Engines and Fuel
- HOT – Bypass failed Yanmar harness connector behind battery bank, which was the cause of the fault
- Examine Racor, water drain, and possibly replace filter that has been in use
- Change secondary fuel filter
- Tighten clamp where main exhaust meets thru-hull at stern (tiny dribble)
- Check exhaust elbow on genset and reduce chafe potential
- Disassemble anchor/bilge engine-driven pump and connected plumbing… whole arm dangling off and worn through on framing at step (isolation issue too). This needs to become a proper hose assembly
- Replace impeller cover with Speedseal Life
- Tie tapered plugs to thru-hulls and provide nearby dead-blow mallet
- Bring Balmar regulator “Fault” light output to power panel or Yanmar idiot light
- Put 50A fuse in red wire pair (harness Y) to protect Yanmar cable to panels, which is amazingly not protected… raw batt to both helms! Has to source 33A when pre-heater is engaged (see sketch on p 9-34 of Yan service manual)
- Brass-brush surface corrosion and identify any sources
- Clean with dichloromethane
(order some)and paint
- Change PCF hose to air intake, as it’s not supple (not urgent)
- Change hoses around secondary, painted and stiff (not urgent)
- Test and probably replace thermostat
- Find engine rear corner leak
- HOT – identify proper location for bonding brush connection, as I believe the corrosion on the dripless coupling is new since it was attached to engine block.
- Clean air filter
- Clean turbo
- Over winter: service entire cooling system, removing all three heat exchangers and sending for cleaning, as well as sea water pumps
- Over winter: exhaust elbow, adjust tappets, re-torque cylinder head, change all rubber hoses, inspect belt, add alt and raw pump to spares inventory
The new 420-watt solar array (180 plus 240) uses Solarex ultralite modules bonded to new stainless substrates attached to the arch. This section covers that hardware as well as system integration
- Determine angle of interface element at side tabs, fabricate in aluminum to fine-tune, then replicate in stainless – HOT
- Acquire Greenlee .75″ punch for aft array wiring holes
- Install aft array with help for high tide (back boat to observation deck)
- Follow forward run with aft run when modules in place (to prevent dangling cable end from collecting moisture).
Radio Communications and Antenna Mounting
This includes VHF, HF SSB, ham radio, APRS, and related antennas…. as well as general comms projects. Actual console fabrication is in the major section above.
- Order CommandMic III
(check my existing CMII cable; looks like radio end might be the same, so extension might be OK)
- DSC antenna for 802
- Acquire coax and connect Kenwood to dual-band J-Pole. Test that antenna.
- Swap in new APRS box (RTrak) in original location… or in Pelican case at solar array, which will be a lot simpler and probably higher performance
- Repackage old RTrak for Microship use
- Replace junk speakers in aft cabin – move Bose boxes after new ones installed in lab. Cover holes from old ones (AT-140 installation opened starboard one)
- Install Sirius antenna on hatch hood region
- TV 2025 antenna on hatch hood (probably not really worth it; if so, use Silicon Dust or similar gadget with network, with switch to old TV)
- Install 706 black box under desk
- Order RigBlaster Advantage
- Trace old WEFAX cable from device end… where does it go? Pull it.
- Extend cellular antenna coax to Internet Alcove, hopefully with splice to existing cable under stove… or new coax
- Mount long WiFi antenna in frame of aft solar array, port side, with N elbow
- Install Bullet in Otterbox and mount under aft solar array
- Cable run POE from Otterbox to Internet Alcove
- Modularize that or keep spare unit for sky-platform deployment
I threw this in “ship systems” although it spans many other categories (interior, exterior, power, geekery…). Lots of random lighting fixes and improvements are necessary.
- Install new LED anchor light.
- Replace spreader lights and foredeck light with a pair of Rigid Dually
- Put a decent and non-ugly work light at Internet Alcove desk… currently a dreary spot. Share clamp-on 10W flood with galley stove, with connector at left end. Install 12V outlet for this… do we have to wait for Alcove panel?
- Strip light over Zone of Hackage (inside lid, auto switch)
- Small LED at companionway
- Cockpit flood for general use – LED worklight mounted under radar platform
- Remove intermittent Penfa wall-mount light fixture, and move the flex-arm LED light from aft cabin port side to forepeak bulkhead
- Install the APRSworld unit with switch and pot (dimmer control 0-1.25V with divider chain) wherever flush-mount option exists… aft head compartment?
- Add decent lighting inside power panel (strip LED) and other pilothouse areas now served by new switch array
- Mount helmet camera on Golight housing
- Provide power to Buddha-cam
- Mount spotlight on bow pulpit with epoxy-finished wood platform and stainless U-bolts; shim to compensate for slight pulpit skew
- Cable power and video to lab region
- LED strip light to clothes closet in aft stateroom with reed switch
- Strip light to goo/maintenance closet in Penfa suite with reed switch
- Remove LED puck from forward head door
- Work light over stove using 12V connector in Internet Alcove… stay with clamp, but improve it and add utility outlet
- Replace galley strip dimmer with a switch; it is annoyingly jaggy especially during battery charge cycles. Hard wire this end of the chain.
The Isotemp Slim Square was installed last year, and (after a few initial leaks from reinforced hose softening with exposure to hot water) works well. At the moment, all that’s necessary is wrapping up the job by physically bolting it to the boat… it’s just sitting there, though it has been popping its over-temp breaker frequently ever since new (replacement thermostat did not fix the problem).
- Contact manufacturer directly to order a new heating element… install it
- AWAB hose clamps to replace any “Ideal” type in current use
- Attach mounting blocks to shower compartment wall
- Acquire marine solar water heater system for new dodger structure.
The remnants of the original bizarre plumbing system are still hanging off the horrible Lavac toilet in the aft head compartment, leading to flakiness. Also, since the nasty old LectraSan is non-functional (and of questionable legality anyway), I want it to go away.
- Pull LectraSan; sell control board
- Acquire Raritan “Marine Elegance” with Sea Fresh system (salt/fresh) macerating electric toilet with 1″ hose to aux tank port, replacing aft Lavac (good discussion). Add direct O/B Y-valve, which is not available with forward head. Panel mount under sink for ease of use, along with control panel and mode select.
- Pull all old hoses leading forward (mini-tank and old crossover and ???).
Most of the leaks (botched Spinweld, inadequate hose clamping, loose fittings, sheet-metal screws in the Sealand inspection plate bolt circle, inappropriate baffled tank, and a hose under pressure sealed by just screwing in a cap) have been fixed, but there are still unexplained smells and a few tweaks remain:
- Check leaky hose fitting at T12 pump
- Find the mystery smell on warm days that still eludes me. (Maybe First Mate will follow-through on help offer, though unlikely)
- Relegate Lavac to secondary use once aft macerating electric online…
Shower and other fresh-water plumbing
The shower itself is fine, with local hot water supply. A few fixes and modifications:
- Add aluminum bracing channel under repaired shower seat
- Add hinged vent fan to overhead hatch while also doing the one for the galley
- Standardize lashup for the solar shower hanging and hose routing
- Acquire a check valve to prevent sump pump surging
- Add fixtures for clothesline to use waste Isotemp heat for laundry
- Rebuild leaky Whale Gusher pump (fresh-water) in galley… it gushes onto the floor during pressure-pump cycles, and leaks seriously if a tank is filled into the neck. Or disable it until it can be repaired (have kit, currently removed)
- Fix broken hatch hinge
- Pressure pump is no longer stopping cleanly; diagnose/repair
Issues here… fittings in engine compartment need to be upgraded to bronze, with consistent underwater-rated hose (see Gates catalog). Some stuff has been grafted on over the years that needs to be re-done:
- Remove galley foot pump check valve (white thing) – can kill engine if it fails, given where it is. Move to head raw-water strainer, and clean that up
- Replace all PVC schedule 80 stuff with US-made bronze and marine hose
- Get rid of those gray seacocks (!) and use bronze or Marelon
This needs refinement. The gauge on my valve assembly died a few years ago, making a leak-down test impossible, current capacity is inadequate, and it’s taking up valuable lazarette space while not being adequately protected from the elements.
- Acquire two new tanks (aluminum)
- Expand propane region in the lazarette and put other stuff elsewhere. Fab a cover to make it less wet… old system corroded. Or… rail mount.
- Acquire Dickinson Sea-B-Que rail BBQ and install… low pressure side if they have that option
- Replace trashed nonstick cooking surface then sell Cobb.
- Build propane sensor/alarm and install (low) –
acquire 2 MQ-6 sensor modules
- Get a reverse cylinder adapter for disposable backup
- Run new line to galley stove
Provisioning and Shopping
- Hooknife and Perfect Pole (replacement for the good one lost at the linear moorage on Bainbridge; the one cobbled there is broken). Choose pole that can be used for docking loop Y-fixture.
- Bilge pillows
- Fire blanket
- Larger inspection mirror
- Foam extinguisher
- Butyl tape (with excellent how-to article)
- Hero3 camera with flexible mounting
- Analog underwater camera for real-time viewing
This is all stuff that has to be handled, lest abstract obstacles materialize!
- Nexus pass for 2013
- Change hailing port to Friday Harbor
Confirm update of DMV mailing address
- 2014 Registration for both Nomadness
- International rabies certificate for Isabelle
- Still have user fee decals?
Project Management and 11×17 Drawings
This is mostly artwork for the documentation books, along with other items related to keeping track of all this…
- Create set of checklists: pre-departure, after arrival, before leaving boat, before haulout (shut off fridge recirculation!), after haulout (burp shaft coupler!), engine PM, and so on. Laminate and use dry-erase marker.
- Update the Nomadness Network Architecture drawing, last revised Dec 17, 2009 – specifically in the shipnet department (N2K/183/Internet/comms).
- Do cable drawings at the zone level to capture all the interconnects (like NOIDS, but more usefully graphic), one level of abstraction above system drawings
- Drawing: charging alcove
- Drawing: Engine controls
- Drawing: Hydraulics
Drawing: power management system.Add Balmar regulator connections, including sense wire with new fuse
- Drawing: AC/Shore power
- Drawing: DC power distribution
- Drawing: AC power distribution
- Drawing: charging alcove
- Drawing: Internet tools, LAN, and computers
- Drawing: comm systems
- Drawing: N2K and related (h1000, AIS, GPS, Fusion control, etc)
- Drawing: Power panel node
- Update Scrivener dev document
Friday Harbor lab
Microship offload into building Organize Mount Tonnage into shelving to open space for the tri