Immediate

This collection of projects is distinguished by a temporal factor, not a conceptual one; everything on this page needs to be done before heading out in August 2012 for our circumnavigation of Vancouver Island with a side trip to Princess Louisa Inlet. All project categories are included and loosely clustered… accommodations, plumbing, power, carpentry, networking, mechanical, rigging, etc.

Each is presented as a title, brief description, and list of known specific to-do items. These are lined out when completed.

(Hover over “Projects” in the menu above for long-range, übergeek, and support-systems jobs… the most urgent boat stuff is below.)

General Interior

Ventilation

Dorade vent tweaks and other adjustments to deal with extremes of heat, bugs, and cold…  airflow control on a boat is critically important.

• Fix starboard forward dorade vent, which is not closing
• Velcro air blocking panels for dorade vents
• Velcro screen panels for companionway and forward hatches
• Gather random missing portlight screens
• Under-mattress vent layer (Hypervent or other)

Companionway Door

The new door, replacing the old polycarbonate drop-board (still on hand just in case), is not quite finished… to be secure when closed and safe from damage when open, a few jobs are necessary.

• Seal gaps with EPDM and sealant
• Glue the crack on top edge near hinges
• Mount new stainless slide bolt and receiver
• Fabricate UHMW landing block with second receiver to stabilize when open
• While there, add position sensor for future C’Way Node

Heating

We’re in pretty good shape here, but there are a few essential fixes… starting with getting the Webasto diesel heater going again.

• Pull tubing and bleed fuel line with impulse pump; do test run
• Move control panel to console over pilothouse table, since AC zone is going away
• Stowage for wood containers, saw, related tools, smoke head and pipe
• Use hinge body as drill guide to create divots for setscrews on stove cage
• St. Mary’s hitching on top rail over wood stove
• Decide re glass-front retrofit for Little Cod stove – expensive… not now
• Order glass disc
• Acquire Caframo - figure out a way to keep it retained atop stove. Contact Marinestove re bolting to disc. Acquire cast-iron insert for hacking.
• Bolt Caframo to replacement insert after painting to sorta-match enamel.
• Decide ASAP if keeping Stihl makes sense… Makita probably fine…

Curtains

We’re almost there with these, but for the maddening magnet-adhesive problem!

• Try Life-Calk including primer
• The K&J folks have some adhesive recommendations, some of which I have tried unsuccessfully (two different foam tapes and Gorilla). The problems are heat and the bi-level gaposis in some places, so roughing with a bedding compound is probably best.
• Define stowage for folded curtains when not in use
• Mark them all to simplify ID and orientation

Galley

This is a center of life aboard, and the little annoyances add up to become the nautical equivalent of the “divorce drawer” found in every kitchen. Put some effort into this…

• Mount a paper towel holder – use dowel or other easily removable rod between 3/8″ holes 20″ apart on wood-stove support structure
• Order Spice Stack spice rack; install in corner between sink & stove with angle or wood strip on top rear edge. Velcro three strips to keep the drawers closed.
• Hinged vent fan overhead, using a computer fan (do another for shower)
• Wine glass rack
• Acquire 8″ Corelle (or equivalent) and save 10″ in battery-bay drawer
• Acquire silicone bread pan
• Vegetable hammock
• If we have successfully relocated the AC breaker and Genset panels, then pull the old hinged console in that awkward space and install at least minimal shelving with well-secured curtains for pantry use.
• Optimize over-sink pantry for all plates/cups/bowls/glasses (except 10″ plates)

Carpentry

This broad category covers the major interior modifications (lab region and so on), most of which will happen after this summer trip. For purposes of this page, I’m limiting this to the immediate changes.

• Convert old instrument bay to computer/office space… remove angled panels and establish planar mounting surface, monitor mount, and nacelles for printer and other loose items
• Do enough of the lab desk (hopefully not just a temporary hack) to provide useful workspace
• Establish long-lines gateway zone for all cabling – a covered panel region in the deep corner with every cable clamped and labeled
• Integrate tool storage now with long-term rack drawer solution
• Once old AC stuff out of that bay, do minimal conversion to pantry space
• Install safe

Inside Helm Console

Inevitably, some short-term essentials have to happen now, even if later changed for the fully integrated system. The most critical item in this category is the chartplotter… I’ve been using MacENC on the laptop, but that’s asking for trouble without attention to packaging. A small appliance chartplotter dockable at both helm stations would be ideal, with a Mac-based unit at the nav station.

• Order Raymarine E7 chartplotter from Anacortes Marine Electronics asap
• Order Vesper Watchmate 850 via temp special at Defender (submit MMSI paperwork.
• Acquire Digital Yacht ZDIGAA10 AIS VHF antenna
• Acquire Vesper GPA851 GPS antenna.
• Test Planar on old Mini: make temporary stand, cable w/o USB, test video, install IRtouch, test touchscreen, install PolarView.
• Find touchscreen drivers
• Test with Carnetix P2140
• Install Planar LCD in main inside-helm opening panel
• Fit in the clock, Golight control, video source select for boat-wide analog NTSC line, and other small stuff.
• Move hydraulic joystick to old AC Source Select location
• Play with filtering the spurious Variation data from B&G, probably in the Brookhouse, as it glitches the Maretron compass rose
• Vesper 850 on new hinged panel under window, along with 504 VHF, Maretron DSM250, B&G Pair, and AP24 Autopilot head
• Retire GPS162 as offline backup.
• Backup Mini before surgery
• Install 4GB RAM in Mini
• Acquire Actisense NGW-1 ISO gateway
• Acquire Brookhouse iMux
• On-water Simrad autopilot calibration
• Update firmware on the Pepwave Surf Mini
• Mount Nav Mini in vertical housing behind new computer panel, with local cabling to Planar display
• Open louvers and add thermostatically controlled fan
• Install Carnetix power supply
• Fashion straps to hold flaky Mac power and video connectors securely
• Ensure adequate cooling to Mac
• Install PolarView and PolarCom
• Install Managing the Waterway DVD content on Mini
• Install Light List on Mini (in DropBox)

Miscellaneous and Aesthetics

This is minor stuff to make life aboard a little nicer.

• 12×24″ mirror over panel in aft cabin entryway to increase visual space
• Mount tokens over aft cabin door
• Establish stowage zones for clothing, etc.
• Confirm Fenix TK45 fits in wall-mount flashlight clip (across from shower)

Exterior

Outside Helm

The pedestal, navigation pod, and associated additions… this area has been spartan and minimalist to the point of being dangerous.  Time to fix it…

• Mount chartplotter in wooden enclosure on pedestal at outside helm
• Mount Icom CommandMic
• Nest for autopilot remote
• Mount for Golight remote
• Order new pedestal guard with double bend
• Order NavPod uncut Grand Prix series from Defender… unless we do a custom wood box with lockable front (much nicer).

Helm Seat

An absolutely essential upgrade after too many hours spent standing in pain at the wheel. Plan for this has evolved from stock unit on post to split wood unit on laz cover to mesh with stainless frame inspired by Corsair 36 catbird seats.

• Design stainless frame for bench with 7/8 tubing and dodger fittings, hinging on starboard from tubes on stanchion bases bolted to fixed laz seat ends
• Consider extending two support posts up to a cross bar like the wood-stove cage, allowing attachment of accessories
• Order other rail fittings, .065″ wall 7/8″ rail, and crutch tips for port end
• Modify design to mount to steel substrate under seat ends
• Modify design to add triangulation on stbd side, and lose armrest on port
• Order eyelets and tool (these spur grommets from Sailrite, plus hole cutter and die set)
• Figure out drill guide alternative (sacrifice a hinge body fitting)
• Return or sell the 1″ 4-way corners from Sea Dog
• Cut 1′ piece for armrest top rail & install
• Drill divots at all setscrews (once transfer punches arrive)
• Install rectangular bases on starboard side; drill/route teak to pass tubing
• Screw block under port side to handle point load of mobile end
• Fabricate frame and test in position
• 2′ tube from forward vertical post to sternrail to triangulate
• Stretch Microship trampoline material over frame after adding new eyelets on blank edge and cutting to length.  Tension with lacing of 1/4″ line
• Fabricate cushions for back

• Clear lazarette clutter (see propane section for more)
• Try to connect with the elusive welder and get solar structure done in time for trip… need PV array as well as structure for antennas and sun shade.
• Also with Rick, get the stainless sheet retrofit done for dodger (removing old fabric). This and the above have their own sections in the long-range project page; for now, the challenge is more human than technical… mentioned here only to make sure the deal doesn’t get away from us.
• Mount ship’s bell

Dinghy Management

The Gig Harbor 10′ Navigator is a great little dink, but the whole system needs some serious maintenance and fine tuning. A lot here…

• Talk to GH Boatworks about oars… they have been left outside too long and are an aesthetic mess.
• Refinish the oars
• Sell the sail rig – fun, but too fiddly to use and mostly dead weight in practice (email GH about this)
• Move lift points to hull to improve hoisting stability (especially with motor, currently impossible)
• Improve sealing around hatch covers bow and stern… compartments fill with water
• Repair minor hull/gelcoat damage from Oak Harbor incident
• Remove Dinghy Dogs and bring them in for the winter
• Design new lifting system that does not depend on holding line in teeth or two people… spec and order hardware… turning block on each davit root and block with cleat (like dink sailing assembly) at sternrail, possibly both on one side
• Fabricate “nest” to keep it under control once hoisted. Existing system with auxiliary stainless ratchet straps is fiddly and does not prevent twisting in high wind
• Urgent: remove or cover dinghy pintle and bowsprit hardware that has caused so many expensive Awlgrip nicks on the stern, or create a linkage that keeps it at a fixed distance but can handle rough water (non-trivial)
• Captivate forward-rowing lock pins
• Grind the weld that is interfering slightly with stowage position

Rigging

That big stick poking out of the boat is kind of an important part, despite all my discussion about systems and übergeekery. Here are a few things that must happen soon.

• Circlips on turnbuckles (embarrassing omission)
• Clamber up mast, replace the broken light, and do a masthead inspection
• Lubricate Hood in-mast furler and put it through some testing
• Service winches
• Confirm spinnaker pole functionality and stow it along with rigging kit (oh, and figure it out)
• Contact Northwest Rigging about a once-over, tuning, and spinnaker setup
• New braided docklines (two of the 3-strand Samsons have now failed from chafe)

Anchoring

My experience off the seemingly benign Camano shore (whilst banished from F Dock at Oak Harbor to make room for the go-fast toys of Whidbey Race Week) was a real eye-opener. The anchor is robust, but some of the handling hardware needs attention… notably the Lighthouse 1501 windlass. I did a basic clean-up, but this thing has failed me once and it’s probably worth getting it serviced.

• Contact Lighthouse with account of problem and photos… find out whether we should take it there for a look
• Retrofit reversing controller
• Better chain hook
• Improve headset system for helmsman-anchorman comms or at least confirm batteries in headsets and test current ones
• Replace intermittent windlass deck switch (after reversing system added)
• Mount stern-tie reel
• Practice hand signals with KEH

Leaks, Paint, and Maintenance

Any boat is beset constantly by little issues that require attention… leaks around fixtures that find their way to a drip in an unfortunate spot, spreading rust, things that should move but don’t, things that shouldn’t move but do, and so on. This group is for all those (both exterior and interior).

• Leak around wood stove deck fixture (located with food coloring after dripping onto chart table for months)… use low-viscosity Life Calk
• Repair failed forward starboard pilothouse window, with leak leading to captive water and streaks from evaporation/condensation. talk with Charlie. Apparently one unit, which may have to be $replaced$. Email Grahame to find vendor and learn more about assembly. Send photos to the window manufacturer.
• Probably not gonna happen soon, but just in case… chase toerail tang rust and the cancerous stuff around anchor locker (but this time with proper Awlgrip coating sequence and a needle scaler).
• Wash lifeline cushions at stern gate (moldy green)
• Look into Treadmaster paint, since the stuff is porous and chronically moldy
• Remove other two windshield wipers (cable meltdown, not to be trusted) and plug hole with stainless bolt as on starboard window.

Ship Systems

Engines and Fuel

• Replace faulty Yanmar engine-control switch from outside (B-type) panel. Order replacement part number 127412-91250 from Harbor Marine.
• Change oil & filter in genset
• Tighten clamp where main exhaust meets thru-hull at stern (tiny dribble)
• At least 10 gallons now via can into starboard wing tank for Webasto
• Fill all fuel tanks
• Restrict two hoses at risk for chafe
• Check intake screen on genset
• Check exhaust elbow on genset

Power and Battery Management

This is rather a large category, and will later break out into multiple sections… one of the hot jobs is the whole new power panel, along with a number of deferred upgrades and enhancements. I’m not sure where the breakpoint is between what’s needed for this trip and what can come later; once I tear into it, I have to finish. Bear in mind that I have already sold the original breaker panel (hi, Chip!).

• Remove old transfer relay and related hardware
• Remove chromium switches including all on power panel and Pump on helm
• Install ISO-G2 isolation transformer (on hand)
• Create FileMaker database for circuit breakers
• Spec the new array of breakers, first trimming the list of existing ones to eliminate obsolete subsystems. Assume lab will have a sub-panel downstream of original 50A LectraSan breaker. 
• Decide re 360 panel (if the price is insane, which appears likely, we already have a new “traditional” AC panel on hand as well as the AC monitor…
• Order new DC breaker panel, 8382 with added hi-amperage breakers (has DC multimeter; AC one already on hand)
• Design and order new hinging substrate using Front Panel Express
• Mount Blue Sea breaker panels, genset controls, monitoring units, meters, MATE, FNDC, etc.
• Install in parallel with old one and transfer the breaker wiring.
• Remove old breaker panel and ship to Chip.
• Move AC source-select function to panel and open original space for joystick
• Once solar array is in place, cable to the Outback MX-60 and into the battery bus and make Ethernet connection
• Find return amps value on FX so MATE returns full charge more reliably
• Shunt installation
• Repair open ground on AC outlet over galley sink (green wires too short; splice)
• Establish charger zone in old book nook: Maha C-9000 station, Icom VHF base, Yaesu HT base, camera/Kindle/laptop chargers, etc
• Acquire new wall-outlet with integrated USB chargers from OWC for this region
• Investigate apparent open-neutral (according to neon tester) when significant AC load present (radiator)
• Pull LectraSan cable and re-route to lab long-lines region

Lighting

I threw this in “ship systems” although it spans many other categories (interior, exterior, power, geekery…). Lots of random lighting fixes and improvements are necessary.

• Hot: LED anchor light. Find someone to go up the mast (I think Jim volunteered)
• Fix/replace Aqua-Signal green bow LED navlight <argh>
• Mount existing LED flood on radar bracket
• Replace spreader lights with the Rigid Dually - buy from Fisheries asap after show (special price ends 2/5)
• Put a decent reading/work light at nav station desk… currently a dreary spot.
• Small LED at companionway
• Replacement for cheesy LED raillights, hard-wired
• Fix intermittent switch on Penfa wall-mount light fixture
• Add reading light at forward bulkhead
• Add decent lighting at power panel (inside)
• Add white light option at power panel (outside)
• Test Golight Stryker with ferroresonant supply… successful
• Mount helmet camera on Golight housing
• Mount spotlight on bow pulpit with epoxy-finished wood platform and stainless U-bolts; shim to compensate for slight pulpit skew
• Cable power and video to lab region
• Add fixtures to both helm enclosures for Stryker wireless remote
• Strip light to clothes closet in aft stateroom
• Strip light to clothes closet in Penfa suite
• Strip light over stove
• Lighting in cabinet over galley sink

Water Heater

The Isotemp Slim Square was installed a few months ago, and (after a few initial leaks from reinforced hose softening with exposure to hot water) works well. At the moment, all that’s necessary is wrapping up the job by physically bolting it to the boat… it’s just sitting there.

• AWAB hose clamps to replace any “Ideal” type in current use
• Attach mounting blocks to shower compartment wall
• Test washing machine with new heater
• Check on clamp at lower WH elbow tightened on 1/11 to confirm drip stopped

Aft Head

The remnants of the original bizarre plumbing system are still hanging off the Lavac toilet in the aft head compartment, leading to flakiness. Also, since the LectraSan is of course non-functional (and of questionable legality in these waters), I want it to go away.

• Pull LectraSan and sell control board
• Re-route LectraSan power cable to lab for future use
• Pull all old hoses leading forward (mini-tank and old crossover)
• Decide whether to keep this as an O/B only head, convenient for #1 but a potential liability in a boarding even if not used for #2. Most likely:
• Pull aft Lavac and replace with composting toilet. SV Sarah uses Airhead; the options are Nature’s Head and Air Head.

Forward Head

I will always be annoyed at that local “marine plumber” who did such a terrible and expensive job on this, but now I have to live with it. At least I have learned to check references and fire anyone who obviously hates his work. Most of his leaks (botched Spinweld, inadequate hose clamping, loose fittings, sheet-metal screws in the Sealand inspection plate bolt circle, and a hose under pressure sealed by just screwing in a cap) have been fixed, but a few tweaks remain:

• Fix leaky hose fitting at T12 pump
• Check Henderson valve integrity… possible back leakage
• Measure tank depth to see if new Wema fits (not urgent, just while in there)
• Confirm that his sloppy access port job has not started leaking again
• Fix or replace pop-up on deck fitting
• Pump out tank and wash thoroughly – it’s been sitting for a long time

Shower

The shower itself is pretty much fine, with recent seam-sealing apparently successful and excellent local hot water supply. A few fixes and modifications:

• Repair broken seat, which failed catastrophically and needs proper reinforcing… send Fred photo with dimensions for hardware choice
• Install soap dish
• Replace lower door vent panel with cat door (and use shower enclosure for covered cat box)
• Add hinged vent fan to overhead hatch while also doing the one for the galley
• Standardize lashup for the solar shower hanging and hose routing
• Acquire a check valve to prevent sump pump surging

Propane

This is kind of flaky at the moment, and needs some refinement. The gauge on my valve assembly died a few years ago, making a leak-down test impossible, current capacity is inadequate, and it’s taking up very valuable and rare lazarette space.

• Acquire at minimum a second tank, or two new ones (consider Seaward 20# fiberglass see-through; Lite series cheaper but not sure of marine)
• See if gauge/regulator assembly left over from Hogfish is adequate… Al had comment on the upgrade for dual tanks.
• Expand propane region in the Lazarette and put other stuff elsewhere. Fab a cover to make it less wet… old system corroded.
• Acquire Dickinson Sea-B-Que large rail BBQ and install… clean and deeply stow the fiddly Cobb; nice to have a solid-fuel backup, but it’s a pain to clean
• Rail mount alternative needs to be found before BBQ order – Dickinson only has 7/8″ and 1″ rail mount hardware
• Acquire propane sensor/alarm and install (low)
• Order CO sensor/alarm and install (eye level, just inside aft cabin doorway)
• Get a reverse cylinder adapter for disposable backup

Provisioning and Shopping

Tools and Boat Goodies

• Hooknife and Perfect Pole (replacement for the one lost at the linear moorage on Bainbridge)
• Magnet goo
• Yanmar 127412-91250 switch from Harbor
• 2012 Waggoner Guide
• Bilge pillows
• Fire blanket
• Foam extinguisher
• Get over-the-door shoe holder for pantry doors, holding little stuff
• ScotteVest upgrade
• Hero2 camera with flexible mounting (talk with Daniel)

Administrative and Legal

Border-Crossing Essentials

This is all stuff that has to be handled, lest abstract obstacles materialize at the last minute!

• Kirsten’s birth certificate, passport photo, and passport
• I-68, Nexus, or whatever it is these days… for both of us
• International rabies certificate for Isabelle
• Still have user fee decals?
• MMSI to M504 and M802 and Vesper 850
• COA to FCC
• New Vessel Safety Check

Business Continuity

Not that there is much “business,” but some things need to keep moving in our absence… so a home-base person is essential. Hopefully, this can be a test run for a long-term relationship.

• Find someone to do mail, bills, shipping, and other base-office tasks
• Find renter for apartment August-September